Return the pan to the heat. Finely slice and add the pancetta with ½ a tablespoon of olive oil and fry until the fat has rendered and the pancetta is lightly golden.

Peel, finely slice and add the garlic, then crumble in the dried chilli and strip in the remaining thyme leaves. Season generously with black pepper.

Click off the darker, tougher leaves from the cabbage, discarding any tough stalky bits, then roll up and finely slice. Add to the pan and cook for a few minutes, or until beginning to soften.

Tear up the paler cabbage leaves and finely chop the stalk, then add to the pan with a good splash of boiling water. Season with sea salt, reduce the heat to medium, cover and cook for a further 10 minutes, or until tender.

Cook the pasta in a large pan of boiling salted water, according to the packet instructions.

Finely grate the Parmesan and chop the mozzarella into 1cm chunks.

Drain the pasta, reserving a mugful of the cooking water, and toss with the cabbage.

Remove the pan from the heat, add the Parmesan and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and toss well, adding splashes of the cooking water, if needed.

Add the mozzarella, tossing for 30 seconds, or until stringy and oozy, before serving with a scattering of toasted pine nuts and an extra grating of Parmesan, if you like.